Remedios

Villa Clara - Santa Clara

The tiny old city of Remedios is considered one of Cuba's colonial gems. It's located 45 km northeast of Santa Clara on a direct 2-lane highway.

There's not a whole lot to see in Remedios, but that's part of its charm. The small Plaza Martí sits at the colonial center of Remedios, watched over by the beautiful Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, with its stunning baroque altar and celebrated pregnant Madonna.

For several weeks at the end of each year, the quiet town of Remedios becomes the site of one of Cuba's great street parties and religious Carnivals, Las Parrandas. The infectious revelry keeps things lively throughout the holiday season. Things culminate on Christmas Eve in an orgy of drums, floats, and fireworks. The whole thing allegedly began in 1829, when the local priest sent some altar boys out to bang on pots and pans and scare some parishioners into the midnight Advent Masses.

Today, the festivities drag out over the weeks leading up to Christmas Eve, and have even spread into neighboring hamlets. Still, Plaza Martí in Remedios is the place to be, and the night to be there is December 24. Be prepared to stay up late, and bring some ear protection. If you're not here near year's end, pop in at the Museo de las Parrandas, where you can get an idea of the pageantry by examining the small display of photos, costumes, and floats.