Coppelia

Made famous in Tomás Gutiérez Alea's hit film 'Fresa y chocolate' (Strawberries and Chocolate), this is the main branch of the Cuban national ice-cream company. At the center of the block-long complex is a postmodern building of curving concrete and glass, surrounded by a series of open courtyards with wrought-iron tables, where customers are served bowls of the frozen nectar. There are actually a dozen or so small booths selling cones and bowls spread around the park.

Still, Coppelia is yet another glaring case of tourist apartheid: Cubans form long lines to wait their turn at a table or stand while tourists, who are paying in dollars and not pesos, are always taken to the head of the line, or shown to a separate dollar stand. There are usually only 2 or 3 flavors available on any given day; if you're there on a rum raisin day, you're in for a treat.